How To Winterize An RV!

How To Winterize An RV!
Here are the two best ways to Winterize an RV. You can Winterize with an air compressor or RV Antifreeze. Here are a few of the things we used and …

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  • why put antifreeze in the lines if they are empty? I can see filling the P-traps in case if some water remains in them. A p-trap with a drain plug would take care of that. Of course, being a retired plumber and first time RV owner I have to ask. 🙂 Thank you.

  • I'm a one-month newbie and know NOTHING!! This video was great! Just winterized the rig's water lines – air compressor method. Took me a while for several reasons, but seemed to work correctly. THANKS so much.

  • I have a question about the city water connection. I did the antifreeze went through all the crosses and I was told I need to shut the water pump off, and then turn on the cold water to release any pressure in the lines. Then go out to the city and push that button like you said. I did that but I never got any antifreeze coming out just a little bit of water. So is that mean I'm protected still or no?

  • If we wanted to go on a few trips ( 2-4 ) days during the winter, ( Western Maryland ) , I assume the best work flow would be to do the trip, and not worry about freezing since we would have the heat going and water flowing for showers / sink/ etc , and just do the air method for the few weeks in between until the next break in the weather, ( sometimes we get 50-60 degree days in jan and feb ) , correct??
    Thanks for any help, love the Channel !!!!

  • This is the first time I will be winterizing an RV. We got ours in July and this is our first. Hoping I do it right. Would hate to have a problem in the spring. <fingers crossed>

  • I've used the blowout method on my travel tailer and it worked great. When I did it on my 5th wheel I had to replace the shower fixture where water got stuck in the mixer section. Following year used antifreeze. Again had to replace the shower fixture for the second time. Now I add antifreeze and leave the valved open. No more replacing the fixture. If moisture is left in it can expand and not break the fixture. Great video covering both methods.

  • Question does every trailer that holds water have two low level on them i can't find found mine and if I winterize the trailer already do I have to start all over again

  • We just bought our first trailer this summer and I had some warranty work that needed to be done so I had the dealership winterize my trailer. One question though, I noticed they left the anode rod out of the hot water tank? Should I put it back in or leave it out for the winter?

  • If the RV is designed right, you should not have to use either air or anti-freeze for the pipes, just anti-freeze for the drains.  Unfortunately many are not designed to completely drain the water.  I am one of the lucky ones and all I have done is drain everything, no air or anti-freeze in the pipes, and never had a problem, even with the trailer being stored in zero F weather.   One thing I do is raise and lower the trailer tongue through level when all the drains are open to make sure there is no trapped water.

  • Love your channel, keep up the great work. Since the winters in Central Florida are quite different than most folks’ “Winter”, I’d like your viewpoint. My situation: I keep my Heartland Pioneer RL250 hooked up at my house 24X7 to 30amp service, water, AC running set at 84-88 and sewage hooked up via the Sewer Solution, so the unit is not really sitting all winter (at all) in the traditional sense of what most winterizing discussions are about. We may have a very few days between Dec and Feb that get below 32 degrees. So, that being said, does this scenario really justify ‘’winterizing” via the method you (and many others) are discussing when reviewing the ‘winterizing’ procedures? Much appreciate hearing your (or anyone’s) input. Thanks again!!

  • As always, way good instructions! I gotta agree with a lot of other comments here – why would anyone choose antifreeze over air? If you don't own a compressor, you can get a small one that will be paid for in the savings from not buying antifreeze over the years.

  • First trailer I had I didn't know about winterizing and had to replace 2 90 degree connectors. ( I was still a novice) After that I used nothing but air to blow out my lines and have never had a problem with leaks since. I highly recommend using air over running antifreeze through your lines. #1 reason, you don't have to wait as long to flush your lines out forever to get clean water through the system. #2 reason, you don't have to worry about taking a little bit of pink shower. Great info as always Jared.

  • my preferred method is to blow the lines.i had to replace the valve to the toilet (connected to the foot pedal) due to pin hole leak. i now take that valve out. also if you have a double bowl sink there will be two traps. as added insurance i put 1 gallon into the fresh water tank, 1 gallon into each gray tank , and q gallon into the black tank. that might be over-kill though.

    i learn so much from your channel. you feel like a friend to me.

  • First let me say… I love your videos, I find them to be very educational. So, my question is…why do you have to do the bypass if you will only be using air? Also, while blowing out the lines. Do I need to have one pipe on while doing the other lines to avoid air pressure buildup and bust the water lines?

  • Luckily I never have to winterize because it doesn't get cold enough where I live but if I had to I'd go with the air blowout method over the messy and time consuming Antifreeze method. When not in use I leave my Anode rod out so that the tank will completely dry plus I the rub some mineral oil on the plug threads to prevent rust/corrosion. What do you do if you have a laundry machine?

  • Thank you for showing both methods! We, personally, prefer the blow out the lines method. We also do one little thing differently. We do not want our tanks totally empty. When we did that, we noticed a particularly awful odor from both of them on the first few uses after winter. So, we always leave water in them. Which means, when we go to winterize our RV, we have no way to dump that water out. So, we buy way more RV antifreeze than we need. Usually 4 to 5 jugs of it. And all of it goes down the drains, after we've blown out all the lines. So far, crossing fingers, this has worked for us.

  • First off, good vlog, thanks… I prefer the air over anti freeze, but with our new 2019 Montana 3120RL I’m not sure which method will be easier or better. Second, and this is odd, what brand toilet do you have. With our new rig, the Thetford does not hold water in the bowl (leaking past the seal – have tried Thetford seal conditioner and cleaning the seal). The suggestion via numerous vlogs is to replace the Thetford with the Dometic 300 series. What say you? Again, thanks for the lesson.

  • I see you didn’t use the Viair compressor. Does it have a knob to reduce or just let it go. Will it do as well.
    Thanks for a nice explanation. And the tip with kit. It is always nice to get the tip first. lol.